Dior HAUTE COUTURE AUTUMN-WINTER 2015-2016

 

by Jen

I think it’s not a secret anymore that I am a huge fan of Dior! I have already posted several articles about the French Haute Couture house on the blog, because everytime something new comes out – it completely overwhelmes me by its creativity in all aspects: the inspiring collections, the fantastic setting and of course the whole story behind it.

The garden of earthly delights is the name of this year’s Autumn/Winter 2015/16 Haute Couture collection, and also the name of a painting by Hieronymus Bosch. He is a Flemish painter with whom Raf Simons, the Creative Director of Dior, has long been fascinated with. The impressive show, that took place last week in the garden of the Musee Rodin in Paris, was held in an scaffolding –like set constructed of beautiful, hand-painted geometric panes (whose flower motifs were dotted – inspiration taken from pointillism, what can also be seen on the dresses). Perfectly chosen,  as a contrast, a purple grass carpet was placed on the floor! The big fruit props on the catwalk symbolized the still-life oil paintings from the past or the forbidden fruit. I was personally more reminded of a fairy tale: a surreal garden with the models telling us a story…

Raf Simons took his audience through the time machine, from the late Gothic period, via the Renaissance and the Baroque up to the twentieth century.

“I think it’s a collection full of contrasts: it represents the pure but  also the more dangerous sides. It represents something very light but also something much more covered, something exposed, but also something much more free.” Raf Simons said about the collection.

Characteristics of the collection: several white gowns could be seen on the catwalk, representing the purity and innocence of which Raf Simons is talking about in the interview. That’s why the models had almost makeup-free faces and naturally wavy hair. First look was beautifully embellished with feathers on the cuffs.

The models were wearing overszed coats, most of them in cape form and in all kind of colors: rose pink, musky green or inky blue. Some of them had had an attached single fur sleeve, looked very medieval to me.

I really liked the chain mails worn over the dresses that looked like oversized jewelry. It gave the looks a personal romantic touch.

The last but not the least, the looks that were inspired by pointillism. Most of them were ankle full-skirted dresses with the bell sleeves. These looks reminded me of the 1947 inspired New Look.

Dior’s fashion shows always have a star-studded front row. This time among the invited guests were: Oscar–winning actress Lupita Nyong‘o, US Vogue Editor Anna Wintour, model Rosie Huntington – Whiteley, bloggers Chiara Ferragni and Nicole Warne and many other. 

Embroidered white silk chiffon dress

Black silk taffetas coat

Dark burgundy cashmere coat with fuchsia pleated lining and white silk chiffon dress

Printed crepe, cotton and silk coat with purple corduroy pants

Printed wool, cotton and silk jacket with printed silk chiffon skirt

Cobalt blue cashmere coat with dark grey pleated lining and dark brown silk chiffon skirt

Printed green, white and black silk faille coat

Embroidered printed silk chiffon and wool crepe dress

Black leather coat with rust corduroy pants

Embroidered printed silk dress with off white pleated lining

Embroidered pale lilac silk chiffon dress with jacquard knitted wool top and “cannage” jewelry gilet

Printed silk chiffon dress with jacquard knitted top and “cannage” jewelry gilet

Printed pastel silk faille coat

Plum cashmere coat with dark navy pleated silk crepe and white silk chiffon dress

Embroidered white silk organza dress with jacquard knitted top

Embroidered burgundy and pale green silk bustier dress with off white, beige and black fur top

Printed chiffon silk dress

Embroidered off white silk gazar dress

Red wool coat with pale blue corduroy pants

Embroidered pleated black silk georgette evening dress